Hnav khaub ncaws tau yog ib qho ntawm feem ntau siv khaub ncaws txij thaum Ancient lub sij hawm

Hnav khaub ncaws yog ib qho ntawm feem ntau siv khaub ncaws txij thaum ancient sij hawm
Nyob rau hauv ancient sij hawm, ob tug txiv neej thiab cov poj niam ntawm cov haiv neeg Han hnav khaub ncaws sib sib zog nqus nrog cov plaub hau ntev thiab ib sab saum toj txuas nrog rau cov ris tsho hauv qab. Lub duav khi cov khaub ncaws ntawm tim lyiv teb chaws thaum ub, tim Nkij teb chaws, thiab thaj av Mesopotamian txhua tus muaj cov qauv ntawm kev hnav khaub ncaws, uas tuaj yeem hnav los ntawm cov txiv neej thiab poj niam, tsuas yog qhov sib txawv ntawm cov ntsiab lus tshwj xeeb.
Hauv Tebchaws Europe, txog thaum Tsov Rog Thoob Ntiaj Teb thib 1, lub ntsiab ntawm cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws yog hnav, uas tau siv los ua kev hnav khaub ncaws rau ntau lub sijhawm ua koob tsheej. Tom qab Tsov Rog Thoob Ntiaj Teb thib 1, vim muaj kev koom tes ntau ntxiv ntawm cov poj niam hauv kev ua haujlwm hauv zej zog, hom khaub ncaws tsis txwv rau kev hnav khaub ncaws, tab sis tseem yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm cov khaub ncaws. Raws li rau kev hnav khaub ncaws, lawv feem ntau tshwm sim hauv daim ntawv ntawm dresses. Nrog rau txoj kev loj hlob ntawm lub sij hawm, ntau yam ntawm dresses kuj nce.
Nyob rau hauv lub sij hawm ua ntej Qin, tib neeg feem ntau hnav khaub ncaws sib sib zog nqus, uas tuaj yeem pom raws li kev hnav khaub ncaws sib txawv.
Xyoo 1973, ib pawg ntawm 11 lub tsho ua tiav paj rwb nrog ntau cov xim lo lo ntxhuav tau pom los ntawm No.1 Han Tomb hauv Mawangdui, Changsha, Hunan. Ntawm lawv, 4 tau koom nrog kev sib txuas mus tas li thiab cov tsheb ciav hlau ncaj nraim style paj rwb robe (xws li lub tsho sib sib zog nqus). Shen Yi yog ib qho ntawm cov khaub ncaws ua los ntawm Han thiab Qin dynasties, uas tau sews sab saum toj thiab hauv qab ua ke, zoo ib yam li niaj hnub hnav khaub ncaws. Vim lub cev sib sib zog nqus, nws yog hu ua "Shen Yi". Ntawm no, nws yuav tsum tau muab sau tseg tias cov tsoos tsho qub qub yog txawv ntawm cov tiab hnav los ntawm cov poj niam niaj hnub no. Nws zoo ib yam li cov aprons ntawm cov tiam tom ntej, thiab tau kawg, cov ris tsho tseem hnav hauv cov khaub ncaws. Cov ris no tsis muaj lub duav lossis lub duav, tsuas yog ob lub cuffs khi rau lub duav nrog cov hlua, thiab tag nrho cov kev sib raug zoo yog npog los ntawm cov khaub ncaws.
Cov evolution ntawm cov khaub ncaws sib sib zog nqus tau dhau los ntawm ob txoj kev: ua ntej, kev siv lub "kho lub tsheb ciav hlau". Ua ntej qhov tshwm sim ntawm cov khaub ncaws sib sib zog nqus, tib neeg cov khaub ncaws tau muab faib ua ntu nruab nrab thiab sab saud, uas yog cov ris tsho sab saum toj thiab hauv qab. Cov ris tsho, ris tsho, thiab ris tsho hauv qab yog txhua lub luag haujlwm rau lawv txoj haujlwm, thiab lub dab tshos thiab lub kaus mom tsis cuam tshuam rau ib leeg. Tom qab ntawd, vim qhov kev tshem tawm ntawm lub apron, qhov qis ntawm cov tsoos tsho tau yooj yim los tuav: yog tias muaj cov slits ntawm ob sab ntawm lub hem, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas lub caij nplooj ntoos hlav yuav tshwm sim tam sim ntawd; Yog tsis txiav, nws yuav inevitably cuam tshuam kev taug kev. Yuav kom daws tau qhov kev tsis sib haum xeeb no, cov neeg thaum ub tau los nrog ib txoj hauv kev zais "kho lub tsheb ciav hlau", uas yog ua kom ntev lub dab tshos los ua ib daim duab peb sab, qhwv nws nyob ib ncig ntawm lub nraub qaum thaum hnav, khi nrog txoj siv, thiab zoo li nqos. rov qab los. Txoj kev no, nws yog ob qho tib si taug kev yooj yim thiab tsis muaj kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev raug mob. Thaum tib neeg cov ris tsho hauv qab tau zoo tag nrho, nws txhim kho mus rau "tsheb ciav hlau ncaj". Piv rau cov tsoos tsho thiab undershirts, hnav cov ris tsho sib sib zog nqus no ntau yooj yim dua thiab tsim nyog dua. Yog li, nyob rau hauv lub sij hawm ua ntej Qin, nws yog tsev neeg hnav khaub ncaws ntawm feudal lords, tub ceev xwm, thiab scholars, raws li zoo raws li kev hnav ris tsho ntawm cov neeg zoo tib yam.
Cov ntaub qhwv ntsej muag, luam tawm nrog cov xim, txuas ntxiv nrog lapels, tiab ncaj, thiab paj rwb sib sib zog nqus khaub ncaws tau pom los ntawm No.1 Han Tomb hauv Mawangdui, Changsha. Qhov ntev ntawm lub tsho yog 130 cm, lub tes tsho ntev yog 236 cm, lub tes tsho dav yog 41 cm, qhov dav ntawm lub cuffs yog 30 cm, lub duav rov sauv yog 48 cm, lub hem yog 57 cm dav. dab tshos yog 29 cm dav, thiab lub hem yog 38 cm dav. Nws cov khaub ncaws style muaj xws li ib tug ntoo khaub lig dab tshos, txoj cai lapel, lub tes tsho bearded, thiab ib tug ncaj tsheb ciav hlau. Lub tes tsho thiab lub hem yog ob qho tib si adorned nrog cov npoo dav. Cov khaub ncaws no muaj cov yam ntxwv tseem ceeb, uas yog qhov dav dav dav, uas yog, lub lapel (yav tas los hu ua "lapel") yog kos rau hauv qab ntawm daim tiab los ntawm caj npab, ncaj thiab yaug nrog lub hem, xws li Yog hais tias nws yog ib qho txuas ntxiv ntawm txoj cai lapel, li no lub npe "extended lapel". Qhov style ntawm cov khaub ncaws sib sib zog nqus nrog cov ntug dav thiab lub tsheb ciav hlau ncaj yog nrov nyob rau hauv cheeb tsam Changsha ntawm Western Han Dynasty, tab sis nws tau tuav daim ntawv qhia ncaj qha yav dhau los, uas yog hloov mus rau "kho tsheb ciav hlau" daim ntawv nyuam qhuav qhia lub sijhawm ntawd. Nws tuaj yeem qhwv lub caj dab dav nyob ib ncig ntawm lub nraub qaum thiab khi nws nruj nrog txoj siv tawv, muab kev sov so rau lub caij ntuj no.
Cov ntaub ntawm cov khaub ncaws sib sib zog nqus no yog cov xov paj pob tshab (cov ntaub nyias nyias nyias nrog lub qhov square), nrog rau cov xov paj warp thiab weft yarn loj ntawm 10.2 deniers, thiab silk warp yog zoo heev. Vim nws qhov sib ze warp thiab weft ntom, qhov kev ntxhib los mos ntawm cov xov paj kuj yog ntom.
Cov txheej txheem dyeing ntawm cov khaub ncaws no kuj zoo heev. Cov ntaub muaj xim liab qab xim. Cov xim crimson no yog dyed los ntawm matchmaking nrog madder, thiab nws tseem yog incredibly ci. Kev luam ntawv thiab pleev xim rau ntawm lub ntsej muag crimson, hu ua kev luam ntawv thiab xim txheej txheem los ntawm cov neeg thaum ub. Cov qauv luam tawm ntawm nws yog cov qauv deformation ntawm cov nroj tsuag vine, siv cov xim xws li vermilion, paj yeeb, nyiaj grey, kub, xim av grey, dub, thiab lwm yam. Los ntawm kev sib xyaw ntawm kev luam ntawv thiab pleev xim, paj, nplooj, buds, thiab paj buds. ua. Thaum kawg, cov qauv huab thiab dej thiab cov dots tau kos rau hauv paj yeeb thiab dawb, nrog cov paj ntshiab thiab zoo nkauj.
Thaum hnav cov ris tsho no, lub lapel sab hauv npog sab caj npab sab laug, lub ntsej muag sab nrauv folds mus rau sab xis, thiab hauv qab hem ua ib lub suab nrov. Ob txhais tes tiaj tus, cov hwj txwv loj dai rau hauv ib qho arc, thiab cov qauv khaub ncaws qhia txog qhov pom ntawm lub tes tsho niaj hnub no. Ua ntej Hnub Nyoog Nrab Hnub Nyoog, feem ntau cov tiab sab hnub poob tau koom nrog kev hnav khaub ncaws. Tom qab xyoo pua 16th, saum thiab tiab tau maj mam sib cais. Tom qab Tsov Rog Thoob Ntiaj Teb thib 1, lub ntsiab ntawm cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws tseem yog hnav khaub ncaws. Hom khaub ncaws tau ua ntau yam. Los ntawm nruab nrab -16th caug xyoo mus rau thaum ntxov xyoo pua 20th, Western cov tub hluas feem ntau hnav robes ntev lossis hnav khaub ncaws thaum lawv tseem me.